Still
Thinking -Peace in Jerusalem
In 2007 I had a three month sabbatically with one month spent
in Israel. In Jerusalem I stayed at St George’s College in East Jerusalem. On the afternoon when I arrived I was given a
tour of the campus by the College Chaplain.
After the tour I asked him about walking around the old city. Was it safe? Could I do it by myself? Are there any places I should, or more
importantly, should not go? His answer was
simple, “Walk out the front gate of the
college, turn right and about three hundred metres down Salahadeen Street you
will see Herod’s Gate. Walk through the
gate and then just get lost in the city!”
While to a newcomer that was a bit frightening nevertheless, I took his
advice and got lost in the Old City.
In fact, it would be difficult to get lost in the Old City of
Jerusalem. Walled on all sides it has
eight entrance gates (one is bricked up for theological reasons) and is an area
of about a square kilometre. I don’t
think you really can get lost – as distinct from not knowing where you are –
because the old city is a maze of never ending streets, lanes, stairways and
footpaths. And if you show any sign of
not knowing where you are there is always a helpful local willing to take to one
of the sacred sites - at a price of course.
Many will know that the old city is divided into four
quarters – Christian, Armenian, Jewish and Moslem. One can wander freely between the quarters
and while there are not clear boundaries between the quarters they are each
distinct in their own way. Now while it
maybe difficult get lost physically in Jerusalem ,
it is certainly possible to get lost in the sheer diversity and complexity of
the place. To the outsider everyone
seems to get along well together, but as our lecturer and guide Rev Dr Kamal
Farah said, “In Jerusalem we do not live together we merely co-exist.” I
suppose this is the technical meaning of the word tolerate. The three dominant religious faiths in Jerusalem presently
tolerate each other.
Now while the old city is about many things the two that
strike the tourist or pilgrim are commerce and sacred religious places. From the stalls that line the narrow streets
traders will sell you anything if you can haggle with them to arrive at the
right price – a skill I discovered I didn’t have. But it doesn’t take long in this city to get
lost in the profundity of its religious significance. Much has been written about the importance of
Jerusalem to Judaism,
Christianity and Islam. Each religion
claims a sacred connection to Jerusalem . Each faith feels a God give right to be here,
in Jerusalem . It was a remarkable experience to in one day,
visit the Western (Wailing) Wall; the Dome of the Rock; and the Church of the
Holy Sepulchre. Each of these places
sacred to its tradition and yet each has at some time in its history been
occupied by at least one of the other faiths.
While the city is central to religious faith and pilgrimage, war and
conflict over these sacred places has always been present in Jerusalem .
Two of our guest speakers during the course, one a
Palestinian Christian, the other a Jewish educator used the same illustration
about visiting Jerusalem .
They both said, “After someone has been in Jerusalem for a couple of days they
feel they could write a book; after a week perhaps a chapter; after a month a
sentence and after a year they struggle to find a word.” And I know what that is word. I suspect we all know what that word is. It is Al-Salaam,
in Arabic Shalom, in Hebrew, Pax in Christian Latin and Peace is English. All traditions see peace as more than the
absence of conflict, more than mere tolerance and co-existence. Peace in Christianity, Islam and Judaism is
the restoration to wholeness - completeness.
The very experience of prosperity both physically and spiritually, but
most importantly not just for me or for my tribe but for all people.
It was the Catholic theologian Hans Küng who said, “There will be peace on earth when there is
peace among the world religions." This
Christmas 2011, let us prayer for the peace of Jerusalem, peace between
religions and peace in our world.
Christopher